Balayage vs Foilyage: Formulas & Techniques

Featuring Joico Artistic Educator and Brand Content Creator, Mai Hernandez

balayage-vs-foilyage

Even if you’re well-versed in the art of hair painting, you may still have those when/why/how moments behind the chair. Today, Joico Artistic Educator and Brand Content Creator, Mai Hernandez, is blowing the lid off the subject so you can tailor your looks perfectly to any color client on your schedule. “I’ve been focusing on working more efficiently behind the chair, creating more customized looks to meet my clients’ needs,” explains Mai. Get the full lowdown – and two gorgeous techniques with formulas – here:

Let’s understand the differences…

What’s Balayage? This popular free-hand painting technique is done by sweeping swaths of color or lightener onto the top surface of the hair; processing without foils and heat.
When do I use it? “Balayage is great for those clients who just want a little soft dimension and a very natural look; without committing to something high maintenance,” explains Mai. Your client should also be willing to embrace warmer tones with less lift.

What’s Foilyage? Like Balayage, this technique involves sweeping color onto hair; but the sections are wrapped in foil to conduct heat and deliver greater lift. Unlike regular foil highlights – which lighten hair from roots to ends with a consistent pattern — Foilyage is a softer technique, creating a more natural grow-out.
When do I use it? “I use Foilyage for those clients who want a more diffused look with maximum lift, or a lot of pops of blondes,” says Mai.

Mai’s 2 looks explained…

Look #1: Brunette Balayage

Client level: 3
“My client wanted very subtle dimension, so I created a look with rich caramel tones, using her dark natural base as the background for depth. I grabbed my Blonde Life Balayage Lightener and surface-painted light pieces where I wanted to see them. It’s a very natural look and low-maintenance…but produces a beautiful, expensive-looking dimensional brunette.”

Pro tricks:
Use plastic wrap to protect your painting work while it develops
“When doing Balayage, use 30 or 40 volume developer, otherwise you won’t get any lift,” says Mai.
“Don’t introduce external heat. Instead, trap the heat with a towel — it works wonders!”

The Balayage formula…Prep treatment: Defy Damage ProSeries1 Bond-Protecting Color Optimizing Spray

Formula 1 (Balayage): BlondeLife Balayage Lightener + LumiShine 40 Volume Developer

Formula 2 (Root Smudge): LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 3NA Natural Ash + LumiShine 5 Volume Developer

Formula 3 (Gloss Mids-Ends): LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 6NWB Natural Warm Beige + 8VG Violet Gold + 6NA Natural Ash + LumiShine 5 Volume Developer

Home Care Rec…
Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo and Conditioner:
Stocked with Tamanu and Manoi oils, this is the combo to reach for when you want a brass-neutralizing, sulfate-free formula that fights frizz, and takes a gentle hand with fragile, highlighted strands. Blonde hair becomes bright, brilliant, and gleamingly gorgeous.

Look #2: Pops of Blonde Foilyage

Client level: 6
“I chose to do a baby-light look throughout, which gives her more highlights; but is still soft, natural, low-maintenance, and super diffused. This technique is ideal for those who want to stay more neutral in tone, or go into the cooler zone.”

Pro tricks:
“Detail all the hairline, all the way around — it’s just as important as the rest of the foiling.
“Start with a low developer when doing foil work; you’ll get better (and more even) lift without damaging the hair.”

The Foilyage Formula…Prep treatment: Defy Damage ProSeries1 Bond-Protecting Color Optimizing Spray

Formula 1 (Foilyage): BlondeLife Powder Lightener + LumiShine 10 Volume Developer

Formula 2 (Root Shadow): LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 6NA Natural Ash + LumiShine 5 Volume Developer

Formula 3 (Gloss Mids-Ends): LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 10NWB Natural Warm Beige + 9PV Platinum Violet + LumiShine 5 Volume Developer

Home Care Rec…
Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo and Conditioner:
Stocked with Tamanu and Manoi oils, this is the combo to reach for when you want a brass-neutralizing, sulfate-free formula that fights frizz, and takes a gentle hand with fragile, highlighted strands. Blonde hair becomes bright, brilliant, and gleamingly gorgeous.

Alternate with…
Blonde Life Violet Shampoo (once a month):
When you want to bring blonde hair back to that fresh-out-of-the-salon shade, turn to this sulfate-free cleanser that instantly kicks overly yellow tones to the curb; and finish with hydration that offers luxurious slip and detangling power.

Watch Mai create her Balayage and Foilyage looks, here…

 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Joico (@joico)