Featuring Joico Technical Director, Jeannetta Walker-Rodgers
My client was unhappy with her hair. She had used box dye and a 30-volume developer to cover grown-out blonde highlights, leaving her hair drab, uneven, and lacking vibrancy. “Her hair wasn’t feeling good overall, so we needed to bring back not just the health but also create a luxurious, rich brunette color that felt dimensional yet natural,” Jeannetta explains.
The Inspiration:
Jeannetta aimed to create a trendy, rich espresso brunette look that celebrated her client’s natural curls. “What makes this look stand out is the seamless transition of color. Each section is less than two levels apart, which adds movement and depth without harsh contrasts. The result is a rich, bright brunette that still feels natural.”
Jeannetta's Pro Tips:
“When highlighting, press the curls into the lightener on the foil to keep them from popping up. This technique ensures full saturation and gives you more control over curly hair.”
“Leave enough underlying pigment to support and enhance the richness of the brunette tone. Over-lightening can wash out that vibrant depth.” This seamless, rich brunette color paired with healthy, bouncy curls is perfect for clients seeking a natural yet luxurious transformation. It’s ideal for those looking for high-impact, low-maintenance curls!
Formula #1 Highlight: Mix 1:1.5 Blonde Life Crème Lightener with equal parts 5 Volume and 20 Volume Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer.
Formula #2 Root Smudge: 1 oz 3 Mocha (M) + ½ oz 5 Natural Beige (NB), mixed with 5 Volume LumiShine Developer (1:1 mixing ratio).
Formula #3 Mids and Ends: ½ oz 5 Mocha (M) + 1 oz 6 Mocha (M) + ¾ oz 6 Natural Beige (NB), with 5 Volume LumiShine Developer (1:1 ratio).
Care: Defy Damage Protective Shampoo and Defy Damage KBOND20 Power Masque.
Step-by-Step Technique:
1. Highlight: Use Formula 1 in 25 foils. Create a heavy tease technique and deep zig-zag stitches, lifting to level 5 (deep red-orange).
2. Release Tease: Remove foils, squeeze the lightener off the hair, and detangle.
3. Shampoo: Use Defy Damage Protective Shampoo and towel dry the hair until 90% dry.
4. Sectioning: Divide the hair into three sections (two in the front and one in the back).
5. Apply Root Smudge (Formula 2): Drag the root smudge down about 3 inches, then paint ribbons into the mids.
6.Blend Mids & Ends (Formula 3): Apply Formula 3 to mids and ends with ½-inch horizontal partings, blending into the root smudge.
7. Processing Time: 30 minutes.
8. Rinse, Shampoo & Condition: Use Defy Damage Protective Shampoo and condition with Defy Damage KBOND20 Power Masque.
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