Featuring Joico Global Technical Director, Jeannetta Walker-Rodgers
“I’m always inspired by an amazing transformation,” says Joico Global Technical Director, Jeannetta Walker-Rodgers. And this stunning chrome-platinum look is a perfect example. “I wanted to show that you can go from dark virgin hair to light in a very healthy way,” she explains. Get her details, how-to’s, and formula, here:
Jeannetta calls this…
“Glistening Chrome Platinum”
What this look proves…
“That although the process is long, you absolutely can go from dark virgin hair to light cool silver in a single session.”
The insider tips that lead to success…
Small batches are KEY: “I mix a new bowl of lightener often throughout the lightening process, working with batches no larger than 1.25 oz of powder per bowl,” explains Jeannetta. “I never use a gigantic bowl of lightener because it loses power over time; the oxidation begins literally right after it’s mixed with developer. To avoid this, I make sure I go through the bowl of lightener quickly by using it up and remixing about every 15 – 20 minutes. Yes, it’s painstaking, but it REALLY helps to ensure even lifting.”
Foil folds are strategic: “If the hair is longer than shoulder length, I fold foils in half or in thirds to take advantage of body heat of the neck and head. If the hair is above the shoulders, I leave foils long in the back and fold them in half at top of the head only.”
A pre-detox ensures great lift: “I recommend that my client cleanse with Defy Damage Detox Shampoo 30 – 48 hours BEFORE the process.””
Formula #1: Blonde Life SilverLight Lightening Powder with 20 Volume BlondeLife Coconut Oil Developer, 1:1.5
Formula #2: Blonde Life Demi Gloss 10 Blue Violet (BV), 9 Blue Violet (BV), and 9 Violet (V) with 5 Volume BlondeLife Coconut Oil Developer, 1:1
The step-by-steps…
1.Divide the hair into four subsections.
2.Starting in the back left quadrant, going from the nape to the top, take ¼-inch partings horizontally. Apply lightener into foil packets ¼ inch from the scalp down the mids and ends. Seal in foils and repeat in all quadrants, working counterclockwise from the back left. Be sure to fully saturate the hair.
3.Process hair in foils to a level 9. Pull foils down a little and apply lightener to the scalp area, starting where you began the foiling first, and moving counterclockwise through each section. Once the hair is a level 8 at the scalp, go back to your first section and check the foils at the mids and ends. When working with dark hair, it is highly likely the lightener in foils has stopped working at a lower level 9; so wipe away some of the old lightener and reapply new lightener mixed with a lower developer — mix 5 with 20 volume. Process until a bright level 10 from roots to ends; it should be the palest yellow. Rinse and shampoo thoroughly.
4.Tone on hair that’s 95 -100% dry; process for the full 20 minutes. Rinse and condition with your Joico masque of choice, like Defy Damage Protective Masque.
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