Royal Brunette

Royal Brunette Hair Color Step by Step BeforeRoyal Brunette Hair Color Step by Step After

Brassy results leaving you blue? Denis De Souza shows you how to create this lustrous, cool blonde color without a hint of brassiness. Our NEW LumiShine Blue Ash Series, are an arsenal of ultra-cool permanent crème colors that provide ultimate control over undesirable orangey-red and orangey-yellow undertones.

LumiShine Permanent Creme Color

lumishine permanent creme color tube and box
COLOR FORMULASBEFORE: Model’s natural level falls between a 3 and 4. To counterbalance her brassiness and create a rich, royal brown, we’ll use our NEW LumiShine Blue Ash series.

FORMULA 1
LumiShine Permanent Crème Color 8BA (8.8) with 40 Volume LumiShine Developer for a cool toffee highlight

FORMULA 2
LumiShine Permanent Crème Color 7BA (7.8) with 10 Volume LumiShine Developer for a mid-level chocolate tone

GLOSS FORMULA
LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 8NA (8.01) with 5 Volume LumiShine Developer

Technique

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 1

STEP 1: SECTIONING
Part the hair down the center and create three sections: one on each side of the face (from the back of the ears forward) and one in the back. Create a V-shaped section at the bottom of the back section, then pin the rest of the hair out of the way.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 2

STEP 2:
Carve out a section, lay it on a foil and apply Formula 1. Repeat on the opposite side.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 3

STEP 3:
Take a horizontal slice section above the V; weave the hair and apply Formula 1. Be sure to fully saturate the ends with Formula 1.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 4

STEP 4:
Repeat, taking a V-shaped section above that, then weave and apply Formula 1.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 5

STEP 5:
Clip this foil out of the way, then use the “slice, skip, slice” technique to separate another section. Apply Formula 2, leaving the ends out of the foil.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 6

STEP 6:
From this point, create a bricklay effect by repeating Steps 1-3 until you reach the top of the head.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 7

STEP 7: SIDES
Take a small section that’s 3 inches wide from the front fringe area and clip it out of the way for now. Take a section along the hairline that extends from the top of the temple to the bottom of the ear, then do a fine weave with Formula 1. Take another section behind the previous and repeat the process. Continue using Formula 1 on the pieces close to the face.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 8

STEP 8:
Take another section, then weave and apply Formula 1. Pin section out of the way, then do a slice with Formula 2.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 9

STEP 9:
Continue working in slightly diagonal sections to create a bricklay effect until you reach the top.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 10

STEP 10:
Repeat the process on the opposite side.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 11

STEP 11: FRINGE
Take fine horizontal sections, weaving close to the front of the head with Formula 1.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 12

STEP 12:
Process for 35 minutes at room temperature. Rinse hair, then shampoo with Joico Color Balance Blue.

Royal Brunette Hair Color Formula Step 13

STEP 13: GLOSS
GLOSS: Apply Gloss Formula all over, then process at room temperature for 20 minutes. Shampoo and condition with Joico Color Balance Blue. Rinse and style hair as desired.