

Brassy results leaving you blue? Denis De Souza shows you how to create this lustrous, cool blonde color without a hint of brassiness. Our NEW LumiShine Blue Ash Series, are an arsenal of ultra-cool permanent crème colors that provide ultimate control over undesirable orangey-red and orangey-yellow undertones.
LumiShine Permanent Creme Color

FORMULA 1
LumiShine Permanent Crème Color 8BA (8.8) with 40 Volume LumiShine Developer for a cool toffee highlight
FORMULA 2
LumiShine Permanent Crème Color 7BA (7.8) with 10 Volume LumiShine Developer for a mid-level chocolate tone
GLOSS FORMULA
LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 8NA (8.01) with 5 Volume LumiShine Developer
Technique

STEP 1: SECTIONING
Part the hair down the center and create three sections: one on each side of the face (from the back of the ears forward) and one in the back. Create a V-shaped section at the bottom of the back section, then pin the rest of the hair out of the way.

STEP 2:
Carve out a section, lay it on a foil and apply Formula 1. Repeat on the opposite side.

STEP 3:
Take a horizontal slice section above the V; weave the hair and apply Formula 1. Be sure to fully saturate the ends with Formula 1.

STEP 4:
Repeat, taking a V-shaped section above that, then weave and apply Formula 1.

STEP 5:
Clip this foil out of the way, then use the “slice, skip, slice” technique to separate another section. Apply Formula 2, leaving the ends out of the foil.

STEP 6:
From this point, create a bricklay effect by repeating Steps 1-3 until you reach the top of the head.

STEP 7: SIDES
Take a small section that’s 3 inches wide from the front fringe area and clip it out of the way for now. Take a section along the hairline that extends from the top of the temple to the bottom of the ear, then do a fine weave with Formula 1. Take another section behind the previous and repeat the process. Continue using Formula 1 on the pieces close to the face.

STEP 8:
Take another section, then weave and apply Formula 1. Pin section out of the way, then do a slice with Formula 2.

STEP 9:
Continue working in slightly diagonal sections to create a bricklay effect until you reach the top.

STEP 10:
Repeat the process on the opposite side.

STEP 11: FRINGE
Take fine horizontal sections, weaving close to the front of the head with Formula 1.

STEP 12:
Process for 35 minutes at room temperature. Rinse hair, then shampoo with Joico Color Balance Blue.