Ricardo’s secret for gorgeous, dimensional color? He uses his signature color melting technique that not only creates a blend down the length of the hair, but around the hair, too. It’s called the Criss-Cross Color Melt—and it looks beautiful with natural or fashion colors. Using Color Intensity Color Butter shades, these pigmented deep conditioning masks are a happy medium between InstaTint and Color Intensity—lasting about 10 shampoos. Ricardo’s client wanted to maintain her pre-existing (slightly outgrown) balayage, and this technique is great for a fade out that will return her to her previously invested-in balayage!
Vero K-PAK Age Defy
BASE FORMULA: Vero K-PAK Age Defy 7NN+ + 6BG+ + ¼ oz. Clear + 20 Volume Developer
HIGHLIGHT FORMULA: VeroLight Powder Lightener + 20 Volume Developer for back and 30 Volume Developer for the front
LOWLIGHT FORMULA: Vero K-PAK Age Defy ¼ oz. 8GC+ + 2/3 oz. 8NG+ + 3 ribbons 8NN+ + ¼ oz. Clear + 10 Volume Developer
GLOSS FORMULA: LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 2 parts 10NG + 1 part 10N + 5 Volume Developer
Section the hair into four sections again. Start at the nape of the neck. Take a quarter-inch diagonal slice and weave a section of hair from the top and apply the Lowlight Formula. Continue this up until the occipital bone.
Next, from the occipital bone up, start applying highlights and lowlights in a brick-laying pattern. Use the same weaving technique completely saturating the hair from roots to ends. Use your judgment to determine where to place the highlights and lowlights, but add in more highlights towards the top of the head.
When you reach just above the round of the head, switch to a double-weave technique. Weave a piece from the top and move it out of the way. Weave another section from the slice and apply the lowlight. Then, take the first weave and apply the highlight. TIP: Since the hair is dark at the base, but blonde at the ends, this will help balance it out with the depth of the lowlight and the brightness of the highlight.
Take the front section and divide it in half at the crest of the head. Start at the bottom, taking fine sections along the natural hairline and apply the Highlight Formula. Then, behind those highlights, do a diagonal double-weave with high and lowlights to add dimension where necessary. Continue this through the rest of the section. Repeat on the opposite side.
For the top section, weave fine sections back to back at the front, and apply the highlight. For the rest of the top section, do a double-weave of high and lowlights in a brick laying pattern. Process the hair with no heat until the desired level of lift is achieved. Shampoo with K-PAK Color Therapy. Then, add the gloss formula.
