Roots, Rise & Influence: A Retrospective of Textured Hair

BLACK HAIR-STORY

Roots, Rise, and Influence: A Retrospective of Textured Hair

braids
1000 BC: The Appearance of “Dreadlocks”One of the earliest known references to “Dreadlock” style was found in Hindu Vedic scriptures, where the term “jaTaa” (meaning, twisted locks of hair) referred to a hairstyle worn at that time. Today, these same twists – deeply embedded in Caribbean culture -- are more commonly referred to as “Locs.”
1444 sign
1444: Trade – and Braids – Take HoldEuropeans begin trading with people on the West Coast of Africa, where many of its people sported intricately twisted and braided hair – culturally significant, protective styles that would endure for centuries.
corn row hair
1500s: Colonialism and CornrowsWhile slaves often wore cornrows as a nod to their cultural roots, the protective look was also considered a practical way to wear hair out of their faces, as the enslaved workers labored for long, grueling hours.
1770s: “Good Hair” vs “Bad Hair”During the slave trade, when millions of Africans were sold in order to colonize America, whites began referring to Black hair as “wool” – effectively dehumanizing the culture and establishing a destructive narrative that would deeply influence the way in which Black hair was viewed for generations.
1786: Scarfing them DownNew Orleans implements the Tignon Laws, requiring all Black women – even those who weren’t enslaved -- to wear a scarf or kerchief over their hair to indicate that they were members of the slave class.
1863: The Bias Towards Braids ContinuesDespite the Emancipation, prejudice towards textured hair remains, giving way to wigs, treatments, and products designed to create the smoothness and straightness of “professional” white locks.
1872: The Creation of the Hot CombAs the stigma against Black hair continues, French hairstylist Francois Marcel Grateau invents the first iteration of today’s flat iron – a tool designed to electrically straighten texture in hair. Initially, it was simply a heated metal comb, which was used by Black women to mimic smooth, white hairstyles that would help them elevate their social and economic status.
1909: Time to “Relax"It was not a hairdresser, but a Black sewing-machine repairman from Kentucky who invents the first chemical hair relaxer: Garrett A. Morgan developed the treatment after being inspired by a technique used in his industry to reduce needle friction on wool fabric.
Early 1900s: The Straightening Trend ContinuesBlack female entrepreneur, Annie Malone, begins to sell her “Wonderful Hair Grower” treatment to accompany the hot-comb frenzy. Shortly thereafter, one of her disciples and eventual self-made millionaire, Madam C.J. Walker develops the “Walker Method” -- products that incorporated oils, shampoos, and hair-growth serums, designed to produce healthier hair, rather than focus on straightening strands.
1940s: Rolling into a New DecadeWith Hollywood-inspired glam and pin-up style on the scene, Black women begin using rollers to create soft curls and updos during this silver-screen era.
1960s and 1970s: Reclaiming RootsAs the Civil Rights Movement takes hold, so does activism and the rise of natural hair, encouraging Blacks to embrace their texture, dismiss damaging products, and reclaim their roots by wearing non-conforming styles. The Queen of pop and soul, Diana Ross, showcases her glorious natural mane and becomes a true icon.
1970s: Curls UnfurledA highly glossy, curly style – worn by singer, Donna Summer -- is all the rage, as Jheri Redding becomes one of the 20th century’s leading hair chemists and develops a dual-step process that softens the hair, and unleashes a mass of tumbling curls. The look came to be known as “Jheri Curls.”
Barber cutting mans hair
1980’s: The Shape of Things to ComeHip Hop is born, and with it, a huge cultural shift in style, as Black barber shops begin perfecting Shape Ups and the Fade. These highly creative, expressionistic ‘dos, with shorn sides and high crowns, were worn by Grace Jones and Will Smith.
1990s: Box Braids hit the SceneYou can thank Janet Jackson for helping to popularize the trend of these high ponytails paired with long micro braids. It’s a look that still inspires hairdressers today, and remains a popular “protective” style.
Buisness women headshot
2000’s: Sleek and Chic 2000’sSleek and Chic As celebrities like Missy Elliott and Halle Berry rock shorter, sleeker strands, Black women begin, once again, embracing hair-straightening treatments and showcasing these polished, smoother ‘dos with side-lying bangs.
2009: Hollywood Shines a Light on Black HairPremiering at the Sundance Film Festival, Chris Rock’s HBO documentary, Good Hair, has a powerful impact, as it depicts the issue of how African American women perceive and wear their hair; and the lengths they must go to embrace their culture and comfort level.
Women taking selfie
2010: The Trend of Tutorials With the rise of social media comes a fresh excitement for natural hair, as Black women are empowered to embrace their roots, and a worldwide movement is started. Tips, tricks, and chemical-free styling videos begin popping up all over YouTube and Instagram.
2019: A Crowning GloryThe C.R.O.W.N. Act is adopted in New Orleans, the first municipality to create a respectful and open world for Black hair. This is particularly significant, as New Orleans was the birthplace of the discriminatory Tignon Laws.
2021: The Conversation ContinuesIn honor of Black History Month, renowned career expert and master motivator, Winn Claybaugh, unveils a special-edition podcast, in which he interviews natural hairstylist, educator, and braid specialist, Kamilah, and professional beauty industry leader and beauty-school owner, NeCole Cumberlander. The trio discuss in-depth details about the history of Black hairstyling and the 2019 C.R.O.W.N. Act. Says Cumberlander, “Even in 2021, it’s still legal in 90 percent of the U.S. to discriminate against someone because of their hair texture in the workplace and in schools.” Adds Kamilah, “The fear of coily, kinky hair in general is lack of information and education. Curly, coily, kinky hair is like a treasure…it’s buried under a very ugly part of American history. My goal is to uncover this treasure and not only enlighten future beauty professionals, but also remind Black women that their curl type and their texture is a treasure and is worthy.”

You can listen to Winn’s Podcast here

Real Talk: An Inside Look at Black Hair and Culture

This retrospective was compiled from a variety of authoritative sources on the history of Black hair, including:
Ebony.com
History.com
Essence.com
Esteticamagazine.com