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“SATURNE NOIR” DAMIEN CARNEY’S LATEST COLLECTION

Black Beauty / Sensationnel Hair Awards “Nom”

Nominated for the Black Beauty/Sensationnel Hair Awards 2013 for “International Stylist of the Year,” Joico International Artistic Director Damien Carney reveals: “Texture, shine, smoothness and shape – all the variety an artist could want!”

At the end of the day, whether you have naturally textured hair, length to your hair or have any specific hair type, I understand the hair to be like fabric. It all has texture, shape and form, all its own. But I really do enjoy working with African American hair, because of its natural texture. But even when it’s chemically relaxed I enjoy working with it. I think people that know my work know that I like a range of possibilities from Avant-garde to commercial looks and with this collection I wanted show that variety, in textures and shapes.

The kinds of textures in this collection of images are always popular, no matter what the current trends project. These looks and textures pop in and out every now and then over time. Texture is the one thing that constantly changes in the world of hair fashion. Whether voluminous, straight, wavy, curly, or frizzy, I like to push hair out of the ordinary. If it’s too much, I just pull back a little, while stay graphic and bold.

Collage1

COSMOS QUEEN – For this highly sculptured look I created hairpieces – dark and shiny strips of hair were glazed with clear varnish to add a synthetic feel and to stiffen the hair, so it’s semi-rigid. The strips are assembled and glued in place to create curves and lines throughout the design. There’s nothing natural or wearable, just self-indulgence to create a strong image. I used Joico Power Gel.

The model’s real hair is gelled flat and a wig cap allows hairpiece to be attached. Long wefts of hair are combed smooth and flat on a flat surface. The wefts are sprayed with glue and clear varnish to stiffen and add high shine. Create enough strips to build your shape. Simply build your shape on a head block and attach the piece by sewing to the wig cap.

Collage2

COTTON CANDY TEASE – Here I created the look by “recycling” hair that is cut and left on the salon floor. 4 small buckets of hair were colored different shades and levels to create texture, contrast and dimension to the overall end design. The colored hair is allowed to dry naturally, the matted, balls of hair is cut in to random small pieces and pulled apart, then resembled on top the models short hair. I like that the hair resembles coral, kind of organic. It doesn’t look like hair at all. Joico Power Spray was used here.

Collage3

SWEET VIOLET MOON – A real 100% human hair wig was colored by Sue Pemberton (2007, 2013 NAHA winner, color category) using back-to-back slices, alternating vivid, rich, high definition shades. The hair is cut on the model’s head, using a one-length technique. Hair is blow dried and flat ironed to create a super straight, super polished, graphic shape.

Collage4

OUT OF THIS WORLD- STELLAR AFROS – Same steps by steps as the “Cotton Candy Tease” look:

A wig cap covers the model’s own hair. Hair that is cut and left on the salon floor is recycled. “I collected the hair into large trash bags. The hair was simply pulled apart with my fingers, and I sprayed the hair with a light adhesive spray,” explained Carney.

Repeat the process until you have a full, voluminous, exaggerated shape. Use clippers in a freehand, visual manner to cut a strong rounded shape. The idea is that the shape looks irregular around the edges. The curves and dents add an organic feel.  I sprayed the hair with a temporary colored spray for a final touch on the overall look but, again I used Power Spray here to give the extra firm hold I needed; I just layered the spray as needed – more for the larger styled afro.

The winners will be announced at the awards ceremony on Sunday, December 1, at the London Hilton Metropole Hotel.

Collection Credits:
Hair – Damien Carney, Joico International Artistic Director
Photography – Damien Carney
Hair Color – Sue Pemberton, Joico Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director
Make up – Miriam Vukich
Styling – Arturo Chavez