- salon pro
Thanks to its support of the passion that stylists have to uncover every client’s individual beauty, and the power of breakthrough technology in the products used to achieve each look, Joico turns heads. This year, the attention turns to the curved, feminine shapes and unique take on radiating color found in TURNSTYLE, the 2013 Joico Trend Collection created by International Artistic Directors Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton. From the four, head-hugging shapes to the unexpected color palettes based on a pivoting placement pattern, TURNSTYLE promises to turn heads in salons worldwide!
“For TURNSTYLE, Joico’s dynamic duo of Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton drew inspiration from the head turning transformation of Joico’s image and packaging,” reveals Joico Senior Director of North American Education Angelia Polsinelli. “They combined bold feminine shapes with a dramatic new spin on the traditional, popular ombré color technique. The result is a collection of fitted head shapes and gradient color designs.” She adds, “Both the cut and color looks in TURNSTYLE are executed by expertly combining Joico’s exclusive J Cut and J Color principles with an artisan interpretation that pivots from a central point on the head. The result is head turning style that is both wearable and modern.”
Radial: Graduation and Line Embellished With Copper, Beige and Velvety Violet
“This cut combines graduation and line to produce curves that are contrasting yet complimentary,” explains Damien. “Long, internal lengths provide styling versatility, while the sharply etched perimeter emphasizes the jawline, eyes and cheekbones. I made use of the natural hairline growth pattern in the nape—it’s always best to let the hair guide you whenever possible.”
Damien’s Radial Styling Tip: Enhance the graduation in the interior with lift and texture. Combine the new Joico Power Whip Whipped Foam and Power Spray Fast Dry Finishing Spray into an effective “cocktail” for reworkable lift, separation and hold.
“For the color, I challenged myself to take ombré to a contemporary new place,” Sue reveals. “For several seasons, we’ve seen it done on long, layered cuts with a brunette base gradually progressing to caramel or blonde ends. I wanted to try an ombré technique on a short haircut. So I started at a central point and pivoted back-to-back slices. In place of brunette, I used purple at the base, and shifted to one of two different copper tones on the ends. For a subtler effect, you can substitute the purple for a copper shade that is a couple of levels darker than the ends.”
Sue’s Radial Color Tip: Mix copper with equal parts beige to produce a sophisticated terracotta tone. Her Radial terracotta formula is Joico Vero K-PAK Color ¾ 8GB + ¼ 8B + 10 Volume Veroxide.
Axis: A Close Fit With Judicious Disconnection, Enhanced By Triangular
“Graduation, scissor-over-comb and some carefully-placed disconnecting lengths create this modern, short look that can be adjusted for any hair texture and face shape,” says Damien. “I designed the disconnected fringe sections to strategically open up the face. Disconnection also offers unlimited styling versatility—one can conceal or reveal endlessly.”
Damien’s Axis Styling Tip: Select a styling product based on your desired finished effect, such as Joico K-PAK Color Therapy Restorative Styling Oil for a high gloss look or the new Matte Grip Texture Crème for texture. Apply a small amount to your hands, emulsify and once the hair is dry, shape it with your hands for a bespoke finish.
“Axis is about surrounding darker color with lighter shades,” notes Sue. “I worked off of a side parting and pivoted around the head, producing triangles within triangles. I selected a purple, red and copper palette and within the triangles, I surrounded the purple with the red and the red with the copper. Each time the hair is restyled, it offers a new perspective on the color design.”
Sue’s Axis Color Tip: Stagger the partings back toward the crown and then slightly forward, to produce a darker fringe area, perimeter and triangular section.
Shift: A Variety of Strategically-Placed Lengths, Punctuated with Pops of Color
“This style demonstrates how a variety of disconnected lengths within one cut removes weight and produces a well-designed shape that’s suitable for all hair types,” says Damien. “Medium and long lengths create dimension while the shorter crown and fringe pieces produce movement and pull focus to the face.”
Damien’s Shift Styling Tip: Hair looks up-to-date when it isn’t too perfect. When working with styling products—even hairspray—put the product in your hands first and then push it into the hair, styling with hands and fingers for an edgy, modern finish.
“Pivoting from a central point around the fringe area, back-to-back slices result in a darker base color at the crown,” says Sue. “Then I placed pops of yellow, copper, lavender and blue/brown on pre-lightened sections of the longer areas, perimeter and sides.”
Sue’s Shift Color Tip: Shift the color palette to shades of chocolate, mocha and caramel for a salon-friendly version of the Shift color technique.
Vortex: A Strong, Squared-Off Shape Sizzles With the New “Reverse Ombré” Technique
This dramatic and feminine shape combines multiple cutting methods. “Graduation, scissor-over-comb and some carefully-placed disconnecting lengths create this modern, short look that can be adjusted for any hair texture and face shape,” says Damien. “I designed the disconnected fringe sections to strategically open up the face. Disconnection also offers unlimited styling versatility—one can conceal or reveal endlessly.”
Damien’s Vortex Styling Tip: Thanks to the disconnection, this look can be worn in a variety of ways. Quick changes require hair that isn’t stiff or sticky. Joico’s new Power Spray Fast Dry Finishing Spray is the perfect solution. It keeps hair workable and flexible, and it can be layered to increase the level of hold.
“For this color design, I pivoted from a central point around the fringe and side area taking back-to-back slice partings,” says Sue. “I placed shades of yellow or pale lavender on the slice partings, graduating from lighter at the scalp to darker at the ends for a ‘reverse ombré’ effect.”
Sue’s Vortex Color Tip: Blend Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome V9 and V4 to produce beautiful lavender and grape shades. Simply adjust the amounts of each for a lighter or darker end result.
Stylists can explore the two TURNSTYLE cut and color techniques in hands-on educational programs and via the beautiful and comprehensive inspirational and technical portfolios designed to support the trend. Visit www.joico.com/salonpro for information on classes, workshops and other educational events.
Hair (cut and styling) – Damien Carney, Joico International Artistic Director
Color – Sue Pemberton, Joico Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director
Wardrobe – Nikko Kefalas
Makeup – Walter Obal
Photographer – Hama Sanders
Creative Director – Joseph Suarez, Joico Creative Director