- salon pro
Get out those singles, ladies, Magic Mike is in the house. The new film about male strippers showcases sick dance moves and a sweet love story. And on the red carpet, the stars—Matt Bomer, Channing Tatum, Matthew McConaughey and Joe Manganiello showcased the gamut of iconic male styles. Here, Joico International Creative Director Damien Carney shares cutting and grooming tips for some of the “Mikes” that may be sitting in your styling chair.
The Classic Guy–Matt Bomer
Oooh. So handsome it hurts. This is the ultimate classic look, says Damien. It creates a square face shape, which is the male ideal. “With women, the cut should highlight features like the eyes and the skin,” he notes. “For men, it’s about the jaw—the squarer the better.”
Cut: Begin by sectioning the head from temple to temple across the crown. Below the parting, lift vertical sections along the head shape. Work from the side to the center back, and cut using a traveling guide, creating a square shape. Repeat on the opposite side. To connect the longer top section to the shorter sides and back, lift and blend diagonal partings, overdirecting as you work from side to center along the top of the head on each side. In the crown area, cut vertical sections in order to connect the shorter sections with the longer crown area. Finally, chip into the hairline to create a soft, natural perimeter.
Care and style: “Men’s hair looks best when it dries naturally,” believes Damien. “Blow drying tends to produce too much volume for a guy.” Natural doesn’t mean product-free however. “Moisture is important,” says Damien. “Without it the hair will look dull.” To reproduce Bomer’s crisp finish, Damien selects Joico K-PAK Smoothing Balm, enhanced with a few drops of K-PAK Protect & Shine Serum. “Cocktail” this duo to produce soft, natural control with lots of shine.
The Paramilitary Guy—Channing Tatum
It’s tempting to think that any old shampoo will do when hair is closely cropped, but even super short hair needs moisture to keep it supple and pliable, notes Damien.
Cut: This cut is essentially the same as the classic cut done on Matt Bomer, says Damien. But in this case, cut closer to your fingers to create the compact head shape and maintain a degree of length through the temple area in order to create a square shape. Also, as you cut, snip into each section with the tips of the scissors to create manly, jagged edges.
Care and style: Shampoo with Joico K-PAK Shampoo and treat with Joico K-PAK RevitaLuxe Bio-Advanced Restorative Hair Treatment for softness, flexibility and shine. Work a pea-sized portion of Joico Moisture Recovery Treatment Balm (which doubles as a flexible styling aid) between your hands. Work it into the lengths and disperse the rest throughout the remaining hair with your fingertips. “It’s always important to apply styling products to all the hair,” Damien advises. “The finished style looks odd if you apply product only on the longer top sections.”
The Casual Guy–Matthew McConaughey
McC’s curly texture is perfect for his laidback vibe. “It looks like he has a lot of hair but it’s probably fine,” says Damien. “The movement of the curls creates the illusion of more density.”
Cut: In this instance, says Damien, the top length should be fairly short, but still long enough to produce movement.
Care and style: “I love Joico Clinicure Botanical Thinning Hair Solutions for clients with fine hair,” says Damien. “These products beef up the hair and leave the scalp feeling clean and fresh.” To care for this hair type, Damien recommends Clinicure Natural Hair Purifying Scalp Cleanse, followed by the Stimulating Scalp Treatment to rev up circulation. Then apply Clinicure Weightless Texture Thickener and squeeze curls in place with your hands. Air dry or remove moisture with the dryer set on the lowest speed. “Avoid over-handling curly hair,” Damien advises, “or it might become too round and voluminous.”
The Rugged Guy–Joe Manganiello
Not every guy looks good with short hair, Damien believes. The key to masculine-looking longer lengths is to control volume and fluffiness without a greasy appearance.
Cut: “This is Matthew’s cut six months later,” says Damien. Begin by sectioning the hair from temple to crown. Below the parting, lift diagonal rather than vertical sections along the head shape to produce more fullness. Proceed through the top. When creating the perimeter, avoid blunt lines—keep the edges jagged and chipped for a “lived in” effect.”
Care and style: Shampoo and condition with Joico Smooth Cure Shampoo and Conditioner, followed by Smooth Cure Leave-In Rescue Treatment. “Apply four to five pumps of the leave-in to produce separation,” says Damien. “It’s a great, lightweight, non-greasy styling product.” Allow the hair to dry naturally, or “rough dry” with your hands and a blow dryer. Finish with a few drops of K-PAK Protect & Shine Serum for shine.