As the day of the Royal Wedding approaches, it seems that all eyes are on Kate! If you've had the opportunity to see recent photos compared with those taken months ago, you'll see one very beautiful difference: HIGHLIGHTS!
Older photos of Kate reveal her natural medium-brown hair, which is pretty and healthy-looking, but not very exciting. Newer photos of the soon-to-be Princess Kate show soft, dark golden blonde accents moving through the lengths of the hair.
This weekend, as I taught color at Alberta Modern Hair in Pittsburgh, PA, I demonstrated how salon colorists could achieve this result at their salons. This formula and technique work on both virgin hair or on hair that has been previously colored to deeper shades of brown.
Of course, this color application works best on hair that is at least below the chin (short, layered hair does not support this "lit from within" highlighting technique). I use long foil that is 7" by 14". I pleat this foil vertically rather than across.
Working in my zig-zag technique, I use my American balayage wrap, and begin painting the hair from the nape through the top (where I begin using my traditional shorter foil sheets). I concentrate application of the color formula through the ends and midsections of the hair. I avoid applying product to the hair adjacent to the scalp so that the highlights seem to float away from the scalp. You can view the precise way the hair is wrapped on my new Joico Pro Color Tutorial: Blonde DVD, which is available here.
So, the eyes of the world are turned to London on April 29th! I'll be watching and hope you will be, as well. Let's see how that beautifully highlighted hair looks when coiffed and crowned with that gorgeous wedding veil. Here comes the bride!
P.S. All color is easier to do when you can see what you are doing and when you can evaluate what you have done. I look forward to meeting so many of you in Orlando, Florida at the Premiere Show where I will be teaching private color classes for Joico! If you're there, please come up and say hello!
Wishing You a Marvelous May!
- Beth Minardi
"I loved the wedding!" exclaims Joico Vero K-PAK Color Spokesperson Beth Minardi, "and Kate looked beautiful." She adds, "Her brunette haircolor was exquisite!" To recreate this stunning color, she advises, place soft highlight in shades of lightest cocoa, butterscotch and caramel within a rich cocoa base. The key to the subtle result, says Beth, is to concentrate the lights underneath the part and fringe, and at the lower sides at the temples. "This way, the lights float away at graceful angles," she explains. "Kate's color proves," Beth adds, "that brown hair can be so beautiful and elegant if it's richly colored, shiny and shot through with highlights that contrast harmoniously."
- Beth Minardi
Everybody dreams of marrying the love of their life, and right now lucky Kate Middleton is living the dream. She's wedding her prince, for real, and becoming a princess in the process!
The Palace has been mum when it comes to details about Kate's dress, so nobody knows whether she'll take her vows in a modern, form-fitting gown; a retro design that evokes Hollywood glamour or a romantically feminine frock. No matter which style she chooses for this historic event, I'm sure her hairstylist—like any hairstylist working with any bridal client—will have several key goals in mind. For the most important day of her life, every bride desires a hairstyle that...
- looks soft and touchable, not rigid and starched.
- makes the body seem as long, straight and graceful as possible.
- is designed to look more "fashion magazine," and less "bridal magazine."
- is perfectly colored, without a trace of regrowth or fading.
- if accessorized, is done so tastefully.
- makes her feel comfortable and confident and doesn't overshadow her true personality.
In my experience, there are four foundational looks that I return to again and again when designing for brides. Each one can be adapted a number of ways to suit the client's hair type, facial shape and style. You can't go wrong if your bridal design is based on one of these:
- The Beehive: Think Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast At Tiffanys. Essentially, hair is pulled away from the face, with volume in the back and in the crown and it's fitted at the neck. The shape is stunning—it makes the face appear oval, and it highlights the cheekbones. It's also a great anchor for a veil. Beware of something that looks like my mum's beehive though—it should be looser and more textured and definitely soft and pretty.
- Classic Waves: S-shaped waves cascading from a low side parting gives bridal hair a movie star quality.I often secure the hair on one side for an asymmetrical effect. I also like to contain waves in a fine hair net to create a sculptural effect, or roll them up and pin them at the nape to create a wavy bob. Regardless, be sure to allow the hair to be a bit imperfect—don't over-spray to the point of rigidity.
- The Ponytail: Gather hair at the nape for a sophisticated effect; place it high on the head for youthful appeal. Once the tail's in place, there are many ways to go. Tease it to create a full, edgy look. Divide it into subsections and create curls or waves for a feminine texture. Twist it into a loose ballerina bun. My rule of thumb is that if the outfit is full, the hairstyle should be small in order to strike the right balance; if the dress is fitted, the hair can be larger. So study the gown carefully for your inspiration.
- Half Up, Half Down: This is a flattering option for a wide variety of body types, and it's perfect for a bride who may not feel completely confident with all of her hair styled up. The bottom section artfully contours the neck and jawline, and when drawn up, the top section softens and lifts the face. This look can be worn straight, curly or wavy. Remember, the hair should move—let the fringe or a few long strands softly graze the face.
Practice Makes Perfect:
After discussing the dress, the veil and the bride's goals, it's important to schedule a few practice sessions to ensure that the style will be flawless on the big day. During my practice sessions, I photograph the style from a number of different angles—front, back, sides. Then I'll do another look and photograph that one, too. This gives the bride time to "live" with the look, to study it from all vantage points and to be certain that she will be absolutely happy with her hair on her wedding day.
The Three Must-Have Wedding Day Products:
Most brides want three things from their wedding day 'dos—maximum volume, maximum shine and touchable hold. Joico has the solutions with these indispensible products:
- K-PAK Thermal Design Foam: This mousse is an excellent solution for building body—it's easy to comb through damp hair and it won't leave strands stiff or sticky. I like to apply, and then re-apply—layering it like this allows me to beef up the hair texture gradually.
- K-PAK Color Therapy Restorative Styling Oil: This formula moisturizes the hair and makes it feel "reinvented." It doesn't overly-soften strands, so hair responds to any styling technique. It protects color and leaves hair looking unbelievably shiny.
- K-PAK Protective Hairspray: This is my go-to spray—it provides the perfect balance of hold and flexibility without starchy stiffness. Sometimes a bride will opt to brush through her "ceremony" style and rework her hair into a softer look for the reception—this spray makes it possible to restyle without disturbing the foundation of the original shape.
Even if she's not marrying into royalty, every bride wants to feel like a princess on her wedding day. Start at the top, and everything else will come together beautifully!
- Damien Carney
Now that the Royal Wedding has reached its fairy-tale ending--and the dress, jewels and hairstyle have been revealed--it's go time for brides and their stylists. Demand is already building for copies of Kate's delectable lace gown and her simple, elegant 'do. "She made the hairstyle work extremely well," applauds Joico International Artistic Director Damien Carney. "And this half up, half down look is extremely flattering for a wide variety of brides. It lifts the eyes and the cheeks, makes the neck look long, opens the décolletage and exposes the beautiful neckline of the dress. It follows all of the rules of good design."
Get The Look:
To recreate the wedding hair that is now a part of British history, start with some "royal treatment." Explains Damien, "Kate's hair is beautiful because it's super glossy, shiny and radiant. It looks healthy. So, the day before the wedding, treat hair with a deep conditioning regimen like Joico's K-PAK Hair Repair System. Be sure the regrowth is touched up and consider a glossing treatment with a demi-permanent formula like Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome. That's how you create hair that looks glamorous and beautiful." Shampooing and treating the hair the night before the wedding is a great strategy, adds Damien, because "second day" hair is still healthy and bouncy, but it's a bit easier to style than freshly-shampooed strands.
On the day of the wedding, mist clean hair with water and apply a styling formula that's handpicked for the bride's hair type. "If hair is fine, Joico Body Luxe Design Foam is an excellent choice," says Damien. "If it's coarse and unruly, I like K-PAK Thermal Design Foam. I think mousses are great," he adds, "because they are easy to distribute through the hair and they provide support without stiffness." Then, blow dry the hair with a large, round brush to create a base with lots of body.
"Kate's style was based on beautiful, large, s-shaped curls," says Damien, "so the next step is to set the hair." Using either heated rollers or a large-barrel curling iron, divide the hair into 1 ½ or 2 inch sections. (For longer-lasting hold, make the sections a bit smaller.) Start at the ear and over the forehead and roll the sections away from the face. Continue working toward the back, rolling the sections under, until the hair is completely wrapped. "I suggest testing out this set in advance," says Damien, "to gauge how long it will last. If it drops too early, you will be able to adjust the size of your sections on the day of the wedding." Once the hair is completely cool, release the curls and brush lightly. Then twirl the curls around your fingers to reinforce the shape.
Finally, create a deep diagonal parting. "The off-center parting is great for rounder face shapes," Damien comments. "It should be low on the hairline in front, but extended on a diagonal to the crown for even weight distribution in the back." Divide the hair across the top of the head from ear to ear and gently secure the sides in the center/back of the head. Brush the ends lightly, work a small amount of Joico K-PAK Color Therapy Restorative Styling Oil between hands and lightly skim the lengths and hairline to tame flyaways and control frizz.
Now she's ready to marry her prince!
- Damien Carney
