- salon pro
Jill Buck’s client has been super-blonde all summer. Now, the season’s changing and Jill’s come up with a quick-and-easy way to transition that heavy highlight line and soften it out. “We still want all the fun, hot pieces,” says Jill, “but we need something a bit more natural…and not quite as a high maintenance.”
Jill’s blonde-loving client doesn’t want to go darker, but she also doesn’t want to be zooming back to the salon every four weeks for root touch ups (which is inevitable when there’s no sun to naturally keep things light).
It all starts with pops of beautiful blonde (Jill coins these, the Money Pieces) for lightness near the face; then conceals the harsh lines with a subtle Root-blur formula that begins off the parting, so grow-out is ultra natural.
Foil Formula (Hair Line): Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20 Volume LumiShine Developer
Foil Formula (Rest of Head): Blonde Lightening Powder + 30 Volume LumiShine Developer
Root Blur: LumiShine DD Crème 1 oz 8N + ½ oz 8SB + 1 ½ oz 5 Volume LumiShine Developer
All-over Tone: LumiShine Demi Liquid 1 oz 9V + ¼ oz Clear + 1 ¼ oz 5 Volume LumiShine Developer
Step 1: Start with foiling on a diagonal off the right side of the hairline (“money piece”); take fine slices and apply Foil formula for 5 foils. Make sure to leave fine slices of hair in between each foil. If hair is previously highlighted, only highlight the new growth.
Step 2: Move to the other side of the head and repeat.
Step 3: Working off the natural part, take diagonal slices and apply Foil formula in the same manner. Doing this off the natural part for 3 foils will give you the big-bang money pieces that clients love.
Step 4: Repeat on other top side of the natural part.
Step 5: Start taking horizontal weaves and apply the second Foil formula. This should be about 5 foils, working from the side foils towards the natural parting. (Leave out the natural parting and do not highlight. This will allow the client to have more longevity out of their color and room for the root blur.)
Step 6: Now that the front area (money shots) are highlighted, take your Root Blur Formula and smudge it at the root. Bring the formula out about 2-4 inches to create depth. Root Blur the formula in diagonals starting in the back. Go in between all the foils in the same method.
Step 7: Process for 20 minutes. Shampoo with Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo.
Step 8: Glaze the entire head with the All-over liquid formula. Process for 15 minutes.
Step 9: Shampoo and condition, and style as desired.
Still blonde, but slightly warmer…with a subtle, sophisticated, seamless transition. And because of this “illusion” technique, Jill’s client can stretch her touch-up appointments from one month to three, without worrying about glaringly dark grow-out. Watch the technique come to life here: