- salon pro
Clients come in asking to be “a natural-looking redhead,” and that’s when you have to look at hair type, skin type, makeup, lifestyle…the whole kit and caboodle. Customizing for that individual is the key to nailing natural.
The toughest aspect of red is the formulation. Red formulas can be uber-sensitive and finicky, depending on which area you’re working on.
There’s a new way to approach red, and that’s where Amber Maynard’s “Femme Fatale” technique comes into play. According to Amber, most colorists just dive right in and start with the usual regrowth application. To change up the game, try this:
Start with mids first, then go into the ends, and finally, finish up with the base formula.
The reason: Hot roots are the biggest issue, and the ends always tend to go either drab or darker. By applying formulas in different areas and going from the ones that process easily to the most sensitive spots, you’ll avoid those root challenges.
Amber’s model, Jordan, came in as a natural Level 7 (she’d never had her hair colored before), with a golden glow to her skin, light freckling, and light eyes. It was the perfect canvas, so Amber went to town using all permanent LumiShine Crème Color.
(Note how her root formula has the lowest volume, mids the highest, and ends fall in the middle zone. This is the best way to formulate seamless red.)
Mids – Formula 1
LumiShine Permanent .50 oz 8NRG + .50 oz 8NC + 30 Volume LumiShine Developer
Ends – Formula 2
LumiShine Permanent .50 oz 8NRG + .25 oz 8NC + .25 oz 9NC + 20 Volume LumiShine Developer
Roots – Formula 3
LumiShine Permanent .50 oz 8NRG + .25 oz 8NC + .25 oz 7NC + 15 (10 + 20) Volume LumiShine Developer